FAQ

I use a variety of handle options including micarta, G10, carbon fiber, stabilized woods, bone, antler, ivory, and fossils. The following are examples, and not an exhaustive list. 

Micarta is made of layers of canvas, burlap, linen, or paper, impregnated with a phenolic resin. It is waterproof, dense and durable, making it a good handle material. It, along with G10 and carbon fiber, are the most durable handle materials I use. They are extremely tough, and are good choices for those that work it a more rough, wet, rugged environment. Micarta actually becomes more "grippy" when wet, and more grippy throughout the life of the handle. Maintenance is as simple as washing with detergent when needed, and drying with a cloth.

G10 is similar to micarta, but is made of layers of fiberglass fabric in an epoxy resin. G10 is lighter in weight compared to micarta, and is available in a wide range of color options and combinations. It also waterproof, requires minimal maintenance and can be washed clean and dried off. 

Natural Wood is unsurpassed in its intrinsic beauty and organic qualities. Some of my favorites include: Koa, Maple, Redwood, Cocobolo, Ironwood, Box Elder, Tasmanian Blackwood, Amboyna Burl, Chestnut, Hackberry, among many others. My supplier of stabilized woods is Knight's Stabilized Woods (search him on Instagram or Facebook). If you see something on his page you like, you can reach out to me, and I can obtain them easily, as I live local to him. The woods I use for my knives are stabilized, and therefore, less prone to swelling and contacting than unstabilized woods. 

Ivory and Fossils are among my favorite handle materials to use. I particularly love mammoth ivory, and mammoth molar. These are premium materials they find in the permafrost of places like Alaska and Siberia. These are truly one of a kind, beautiful materials, but come at a premium cost. Email me for any inquiries into making a knife especially for you with these materials.

What is a blade finish?

A blade finish is what the blade portion of the knife will look like. Browse through the "gallery" tab on the home page to see some different examples of blade finishes. 

Satin: This will be a "shiny" finish on the blade. It looks traditional, but does reveal scratches fairly easily. It is very common, and a beautiful finish. 

Mirror: You will see your reflection in the blade, clearly. It takes a lot of sanding to get to this high level of finish, but does look very nice. Scratches will show up easily with this finish.

Blasted and tumbled: A blasted blade has been blasted with a media that gives it a matte finish, and darkens the steel slightly. The blade is them tumbled in ceramic media to give it a "marbling" effect. This finish is great to knock down the shine on the blade, reducing glare, and it is a great finish to conceal scratches.

Acid Splatter: Probably the most non-traditional looking, but coolest blade finishes. It has a "splatter effect," and is darker than a satin. It is also great at hiding scratches, and adds a little character and uniqeness. 

Mustard Finish: Only works on carbon steel. Much like an acid splatter.

Damascus/layered, or pattern welded steel: This finish is only achievable on these types of steels, due to the different alloys in the steel. To get these patterns, these types of steels must be purchased, and cannot be achieved on "mono-steels." 

What types of sheath do you use?

I use either kydex, or leather. 

Kydex is a thermoplastic material, that is extremely durable, and is a great option for those who want a material that will "take a beating." It will not swell, or contract, or hold moisture. I custom press each knife blade with kydex, so each sheath is custom tailored to that particular knife.

I use an ambidextrous, vertical carry clip with the kydex, and can be used for inside the waistband/pocket, or outside the waistband, belt-carry.

The rivet spacing on my kydex sheaths are configured to be able to carry horizontally on a belt (scout carry). Popular options for horizontal carry clips are tech-lock clips, and combat carry kydex sheath straps. Both available on Amazon, but I also, occasionally, have some in stock if you wish to purchase these.

Reminder: If any dirt, or debris, gets inside your sheath, it can rub against the blade, and scratch the finish. This will happen with any sheath you buy, from whoever you buy it from. I occasionally blow compressed air into the sheath, and wash it (Kydex only) under the sink to clean it out. Some finishes on the blades will show scratches more easily, such as a hand-rubbed finish. Others conceal scratches easier, such as a blasted and tumbled finish.

I also use leather. I use 8-9oz vegetable tanned leather. Leather can hold moisture if left wet, and requires occasional conditioning. Hand-stitched, leather sheaths will need to be made either right, or left, hand. Riveted leather sheaths are ambidextrous. If you wish to purchase a leather sheath, just let me know via email. (make sure to include order number). Leather will be an additional up-charge. 

What's the wait time on a custom knife?

It all depends. I will add your name to a wait list, and I typically work down the list, working in batches. Typically, my wait time is 4-6 weeks, but that all varies, and is subject to change, depending on how many people are on the wait list.

If you order custom laser engraving, or a leather sheath as an additional option, this will extend the shipment date of your knife, as I make them custom fit to each blade, and will have to make them to order.

How do I get on the custom wait list?

Simply send me an email, and I will get in contact with you about the specifics of your custom build.

Do you require payment up front?

On a custom build, due to the uniqueness of the custom piece, payment is required up front. Custom work is personalized to you, therefore, payment must be collected up front in order for me to begin the process of building your custom knife.